Bia hơi Hà Nội

8:55 am 05/10/2018 8635 lượt xem

 Bia hơi Hà Nội

Bia chai xuất hiện ở Hà Nội đã hơn một thế kỷ còn bia hơi mới khoảng 50 năm. Nhưng uống bia hơi trở thành cái thú của riêng người Hà Nội và cũng chỉ ở Hà Nội phố nào cũng có bia hơi. Không chỉ mùa hè nóng nực, mùa đông miền Bắc lạnh giá mà các quán vẫn đông đúc, ồn ào. Theo thời gian bia hơi có sự thay đổi…

Trước khi Hà Nội có nhà máy bia thì đàn ông Hà Nội uống rượu Mơ, trước nữa thì uống rượu sen do làng Thụy Chương nấu. Thế kỷ XVIII và XIX, sĩ phu Bắc Hà ăn tết “trùng cửu”, trước Tết này là mùa thu nên hoa cúc nhiều và Kẻ Mơ đã chế ra thứ rượu cúc thơm nhẹ, uống vào thấy người bay bay, mới thấm câu thơ của người xưa “Thu ẩm hoàng hoa tửu”. Rượu cúc còn được các sĩ phu dùng trong dịp Tết. Đầu thế kỷ XVIII, người Thăng Long – Hà Nội đã uống vang nho trong ngày Tết, tất nhiên chỉ là các gia đình giàu có. Rượu này do người Bồ Đào Nha đưa từ Ma Cao sang.

Bia hơi, đặc sản của Hà Nội

Năm 1890, Nhà máy Bia Hommel bắt đầu xây dựng trên núi Voi đường Hoàng Hoa Thám (nay là Công ty Bia Hà Nội), sau hai năm thì hoàn thành. Nhà máy có hơn 30 công nhân và công suất ban đầu là 150 lít/ngày. Bia chủ yếu phục vụ công chức và binh lính, sĩ quan Pháp đóng ở Hà Nội. Trong cuốn hồi ký “Đông Dương ngày ấy 1898-1908”, Claude Bourrin – vốn là một viên chức của Sở Thuế Bắc Kỳ, người sở hữu chiếc xe máy hiệu Herstal của Bỉ nhập vào Hà Nội năm 1903 – cho biết ông ta đã thường đến đây uống bia vào buổi chiều cùng với nhóm kịch nói không chuyên của mình.

Bia được đóng chai đậy bằng nút li e để bảo đảm chất lượng vì thế cứ chiều muộn, đám trẻ quanh vùng đi lượm nút chai quanh quầy gom lại rồi bán cho nhà máy. Đến năm 1911, nhà máy mở rộng và trang bị thêm nhiều máy móc mới và thuê thêm công nhân. Lúc này nhà máy có 2 nhà hầm chứa bia thành phẩm chiều dài 30m. Một tòa nhà cao đặt máy xay, chỗ ủ malt. Có 3 chiếc bể ủ bia đang chế, mỗi bể dung tích 200m3. Năm 1930, Giám đốc nhà máy là người Tiệp Khắc, tên là Papin và khoảng 5 – 6 người Âu phụ trách bàn giấy đốc công, một kỹ sư Việt Nam là Trần Văn Loan giúp kỹ thuật cho giám đốc. Nhà máy có khoảng gần sáu chục công nhân, đa số là người làng Đại Yên, Liễu Giai, Vạn Phúc, Thụy Khuê, họ thay nhau làm 3 ca một ngày. Khác với các nhà máy của chủ Pháp, nhà máy bia này không có cai là Hoa kiều và cũng không có công nhân Hoa kiều. Phụ nữ thì làm công việc rửa chai theo kiểu thủ công, còn đàn ông làm thợ mộc đóng thùng gỗ đựng bia chai. Cũng vì công nhân là dân quanh vùng, lại không có quản đốc Hoa kiều nên nghỉ trưa về nhà, đàn bà cũng mặt đỏ gay bởi uống bia… vụng.

Thập niên 20 thế kỷ XX, từ bến tàu điện (bến xe buýt Đinh Tiên Hoàng hiện nay) đến nhà Khai Trí Tiến Đức (hiện tại là 16 Lê Thái Tổ) có rất nhiều quán giải khát ven hồ. Người ta chăng dây thừng quanh các gốc cây, kê ít bàn nhỏ và ghế bán nước chanh chai, hoa quả, bánh gai, bánh quế, bánh su sê, bánh cốm. Sau này có quán bán thêm bia chai Hommel. Năm 1934, Quang “mù” rời hẳn Nhà thương làm phúc Hàng Bột ra ngoài sống bằng nghề tẩm quất. Được bác sĩ Liêm nhà phố Quán Sứ tin tưởng nên Quang có “hợp đồng” đấm lưng tháng cho thân phụ ông Liêm. Nhiều lần Quang gọi cửa oang oang gây khó chịu cho hàng phố, bác sĩ Liêm sai gia nhân lấy nắp bia Hommel đập ra, đục lỗ rồi xâu vào dây thép để mỗi lần đến, Quang lắc xâu xèng là gia nhân ra mở cửa. Sau đó nó được dân tẩm quất rong bắt chước, thay cho tiếng rao.

Đến năm 1935, các nhà máy bia ở Đông Dương hợp doanh lại thành Công ty Bia – Đá Đông Dương (Brasserie et glacière de I’Indochine- B.G.I.). Lúc này, Nhà máy Bia Hommel đã phát triển với khoảng 300 công nhân. Tới năm 1940, nhà máy đạt công suất khoảng 5 triệu lít/năm. Năm 1938, một cuộc ẩu đả tại sàn nhảy gần đền Trấn Vũ do say bia khiến một thanh niên bị thương nặng vì “ăn” cả chai bia BGI vào đầu. Năm 1954, thực dân Pháp phải ký Hiệp định Geneva rút khỏi miền Bắc, chủ nhà máy đã tháo dỡ, phá hỏng máy móc, thiết bị, đốt hết các tài liệu kỹ thuật quan trọng khiến nhà máy không thể hoạt động. Đầu năm 1957, theo chính sách phục hồi kinh tế của chế độ mới, Nhà máy Bia Hommel được khôi phục. Nhờ cố gắng của kỹ sư và công nhân cộng với sự giúp đỡ của hai chuyên gia Tiệp Khắc, ngày 15-8-1958, bia chai đầu tiên mang nhãn hiệu Trúc Bạch đã xuất xưởng. Năm 1960, đến dự hội nghị tổng kết ngành công nghiệp, Bác Hồ đã khen ngợi sản phẩm của ngành có chất lượng khá và Người chỉ đạo nên sản xuất một số sản phẩm để xuất khẩu. Thực hiện sự chỉ đạo này, Nhà máy Bia Hà Nội đã nghiên cứu và sản xuất sản phẩm mới, có chất lượng cao mang tên Hữu Nghị. Bia Hữu Nghị còn có mặt trong những buổi tiếp khách quốc tế của Đảng và Chính phủ. Để phục vụ người lao động Thủ đô, nhà máy đã cho ra bia hơi, loại bia chưa thanh trùng chỉ cần đóng vào “bom” tiêu thụ trong ngày. Đầu những năm 1960, số người biết uống bia không nhiều. Tầm 9-10h sáng, dân uống bia gồm cán bộ trốn việc, xã viên các hợp tác xã, người lao động tự do, công nhân làm ca chiều đã chờ sẵn ở các cửa hàng và khi nghe tiếng nổ phành phành của chiếc xe máy T200 (vì xe sơn màu xanh nên còn có tên tục là “Nhặng xanh”, loại xe có thùng đằng sau) là tất cả đứng dậy lao vào xếp hàng. Dăm bác láu cá lao vào lăn “bom” hòng được ưu tiên mua trước. Khi xăng dầu khan hiếm, ngành ăn uống mới thay bằng xích lô. Dân đạp xích lô bị nhiều người coi là tầng lớp dưới đáy xã hội nhưng xích lô chở bia thì là loại “oai”. Họ được các cửa hàng ưu ái bán cho hàng can, vì thế họ được các em “phe bia” ve vãn. Đình đám nhất trong làng chở bia thời bao cấp là cụ Phạm Quang Giáng và ông Đường. Gần 100 tuổi, cụ Giáng vẫn chở 5 “bom” bia tênh tênh, còn ông Đường từ anh đạp xích lô nay thành chủ nhà máy bia và sản xuất malt, nguyên liệu thiết yếu cho ngành công nghiệp này.

 

Các quầy bia ở đâu cũng giống nhau, sau khi “giải quyết” hết các suất “ưu tiên” cho ông này, bà nọ, nhân viên mới khủng khỉnh bán vé. Giọng vô cùng cửa quyền: “Lộn xộn, mất trật tự là tôi không bán đâu nhé”. Ban đầu vé là đồng xèng hình vuông hoặc hình chữ nhật bằng tôn mỏng, đánh số. Sau chuyển sang vé in trên giấy như vé tàu điện. Vì người uống lúc nào cũng đông trong khi lượng bia có hạn nên để tránh chen ngang, cửa hàng nào cũng làm rào sắt hai bên y như chỗ bán vé tàu hỏa hay ô tô. Và cũng như mua thực phẩm, gạo, dầu… thẻ thương binh được ưu tiên mua trước, tuy nhiên vì hiếm tiền lẻ nên có câu “Tiền lẻ hơn thẻ thương binh”. Ai có tiền lẻ được mua trước cả thương binh. Mua bia như đánh nhau thế nên có người ra vế đối: “Mua cốc bia gào hụt hơi”, khá nhiều người đối lại nhưng chỉnh nhất là: “Bán vại đá rao khản cổ” .

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