Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Sau 3 năm bỏ tập đoàn lớn về làm thợ ủ bia, người nghệ nhân xứ Hà Thành sở hữu thương hiệu C-Brewmaster với hai nhà máy ủ bia thủ công, cho ra hàng trăm các loại bia, nước quả độc lạ. CNN, The Chanel News Asia đã dành nhiều dòng lời khen để nói về bia Phở, bia Hai Bà Trưng và những cách pha trộn nguyên liệu ủ bia độc lạ của “gã khùng” người Việt.

“Hương vị thực sự khác biệt bởi vì bia được làm cùng với các loại thảo mộc hoàn toàn tự nhiên ở Việt Nam” – đây là lời giới thiệu của nghệ nhân Nguyễn Văn Cường về các loại bia thủ công (craft beer) do chính anh sáng tạo trong “The Millennial Investor- F& B Vietnam”, một chương trình của kênh tin tức truyền hình The Chanel News Asia (CNA) hồi tháng 11 vừa qua.

Nhiều lần được truyền thông trong và ngoài nước “để ý”, với những chia sẻ tâm huyết về bia bản địa nhưng ông chủ vựa bia hóm hỉnh tiết lộ “chưa có người nào hỏi vì sao tôi lại làm bia”. Và vì thế bài phỏng vấn này được bắt đầu bằng câu hỏi đi về thời khắc khởi nghiệp và ước vọng làm bia bản Việt của nghệ nhân Nguyễn Văn Cường.

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Gia đình không ai gắn bó với nghiệp nấu bia, tại sao anh lại quyết định làm nghề này?

Bố tôi là bếp trưởng của một khách sạn nổi tiếng, nhưng tôi lại không theo nghề của ông. Dẫu vậy, tôi vẫn được ông truyền cho cảm hứng sử dụng các nguyên liệu Việt Nam như quế gừng, xả, hay các loại hoa quả chanh leo, mít, ổi để nấu bia.

Khi làm bia, tôi nếm mọi nguyên liệu trước khi đưa vào sản xuất giống như cách ông từng làm với bất kỳ loại nguyên liệu nào trước khi chế biến. Nghề bia vô cùng vất vả, nấu mỗi mẻ có khi kéo dài 20-30 ngày, sửa một mẻ cũng mất cả tháng, nhưng đó là cơ duyên, may mắn, dù không chọn nhưng số phận đưa đến.

Khi tốt nghiệp từ Nga về Việt Nam, tôi được Carlsberg nhận vào làm. Vào những năm 1995, việc nấu bia chưa có máy móc hiện đại. Tôi với một đồng nghiệp vốn là sinh viên Bách Khoa ngày nào cũng bê vài tấn mạch nha đổ vào malt gạo để nấu bia, mọi thứ đều làm bằng tay.

Tuy vất vả nhưng tôi lớn lên nhờ những mẻ bia thủ công, học được cách điều phối nguyên liệu, cách để tạo mẻ bia tinh khiết và sạch từ khi chọn nguyên liệu, nấu, lên men, lọc, đóng gói.

Ngày nào không nói về bia, về hương vị thì thấy nhớ. Nếu không nấu bia thì tôi cũng không biết làm nghề gì khác, cũng không có ý định thay đổi nghề, năm nay là năm thứ 24 rồi.

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Thợ nấu bia là một nghề khá lạ ở Việt Nam. Anh có phải là người đầu tiên được đào tạo bài bản?

Người Việt bắt đầu tiếp cận với bia từ khoảng thế kỷ 19, khi Pháp xây hai nhà máy tại Hai Bà Trưng (Sài Gòn) và Hoàng Hoa Thám (Hà Nội) để phục vụ người của họ sang Việt Nam. Nhắc đến bia là mọi người nghĩ ngay đến dòng Lager (loại bia lên men ở nhiệt độ thấp) màu vàng, nhẹ, thơm, dễ uống, giải khát. Những năm 80, bia chai, bia lon, rót từ Keg được ưa chuộng hơn, khắp nơi xuất hiện câu lạc bộ bia, vườn bia.

Vài năm gần đây, xu hướng thế giới chuyển dần sang chú trọng sức khỏe, người Việt không còn uống lấy say mà thưởng thức, trải nghiệm, vì thế craft beer với hương vị, tính bản địa, và sáng tạo phát triển mạnh mẽ hơn.

Năm 2003, tôi làm liên doanh Carlsberg và được cử sang Copenhaghen học khóa chuyên gia nấu ủ bia, rồi về nước làm Giám đốc kỹ thuật cho Carlsberg Việt Nam. Trong những năm đó, tôi sản xuất các loại bia quốc tế, bia bản địa mang tính phổ biến như Halida.

Tôi tin rằng ở Việt Nam những người nấu bia không ít, nhưng những người dám ra ngoài nấu bia thủ công, làm bia bản Việt, sử dụng nguyên liệu bản địa thì rất hiếm. Tôi đi con đường mà mình yêu thích nhưng có lẽ hơi cô đơn.

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Vì sao anh lại quyết định rẽ hướng làm bia thủ công khi đã 48 tuổi, nhất là lúc ấy đang có một công việc lương vài trăm nghìn USD tại Carlsberg?

Sát thời gian thi vào Đại học, tôi ấp ủ ước mơ ra nước ngoài, vừa học vừa kiếm tiền. Lúc đó, mục tiêu của tôi sau khi đi du học ở Nga về sẽ làm cho một công ty toàn cầu, lương trả bằng đô la, mua được nhà, có xe hơi. Thế nên, được làm cho Carlsberg thì tôi tự hào lắm.

Càng vui hơn khi cầm những chai bia Carlsberg, Budweiser được khách hàng khen ngon. Nhưng nghĩ kĩ ra thì đó không phải bia của mình, mà là thương hiệu của ai đó ở Mỹ, Đan Mạch hay Bỉ.

Năm 2003, người thầy dạy tôi là Gám đốc kỹ thuật toàn Carlsberg bỗng bỏ nghề mở nhà máy làm loại rượu riêng biệt tại quê hương ông – Đan Mạch. Ở các nước châu Âu, nơi nào họ cũng có bia riêng như bia thầy tu, bia lên men ngoài trời. Tôi nghĩ “tại sao không làm như họ, mình là thợ ủ bia cơ mà”. Nhưng vì còn đang làm việc ở tập đoàn nên tôi không có cơ hội để làm gì đó.

Tôi từng tự hỏi, liệu có một ngày nào đó mình sẽ làm như vậy không? Nhưng thú thực lúc ấy tôi không tin rằng sẽ có một ngày như vậy, ngày tôi thực sự bỏ làm công ăn lương, ra ngoài nấu bia.

Đến 2015, tôi thiết kế rồi nhờ bạn làm 3 cái nồi inox 50 lít, lưới lọc, gáo múc… dùng bếp ga công nghiệp nấu thử một mẻ bia đầu tiên với công thức riêng. Khi mẻ bia này đươc khen ngon, mọi người thấy thích rồi thì tôi mới nghĩ đến chuyện kinh doanh.

Lúc khởi nghiệp 4 không: không tiền, không nhà xưởng, không nhân viên, không cửa hàng. Vì đi từ không có gì, phải làm tất cả mọi thứ từ đầu, mọi thứ đi lên cũng chậm hơn.

Ngay 6 tháng nấu mẻ bia đầu tiên, tôi vẫn nghĩ sẽ quay trở lại làm công ăn lương vì quá khó khăn về con người, sản xuất, bán hàng. Nhưng có một điều là hơn 20 năm nấu các loại bia do người ta quy định, sản xuất bia theo công thức chuẩn, tôi thấy bản chất như 1 cái máy như đóng khung trong 1 cái hộp. Muốn thoát ra khỏi cái hộp đó chỉ có cách duy nhất là không làm nữa. Lúc đó tôi là chính tôi, tự do về ý chí, suy nghĩ, tư tưởng, thể xác.

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Người trong gia đình phản ứng như thế nào với quyết định của anh?

Thực ra chẳng ai ủng hộ. Ai cũng nghĩ tôi đang làm tập đoàn lớn, giờ lại về làm một thân một mình vất vả, người ngoài nhìn vào thấy như một ông khùng.

Ngày đầu làm bia thủ công, tôi mang sổ đỏ đi vay tiền ngân hàng. Hơn 1 năm đầu tiên, lúc nào tôi cũng nghĩ đường lùi, về làm công ăn lương cho nhàn thân. Nhưng hôm sau lại tự nhủ không bỏ cuộc, nếu dừng lại có nghĩa là tôi đầu hàng.

Có lần, đến ngày trả lương cho nhân viên mà trong túi không còn tiền nên tôi nói dối vợ là xe máy để lâu dễ hỏng, bán đi cho đỡ phí. 30 triệu đồng tiền bán xe chỉ đủ trả lương cho nhân viên nhưng tôi thấy vô cùng nhẹ nhõm.

Từng có khách vì thích mà tìm đến mua bia bạc hà, nhưng cũng có người không chịu nổi bia giả cầy… những chuyện như vậy tạo cho tôi cảm hứng làm nghề. Cảm xúc có thể là vui, vỡ òa, buồn nhưng đó là cuộc sống và động lực để tôi tiếp tục.

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-BrewmasterCâu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Việt Nam là một thị trường có lượng tiêu thụ bia hàng đầu thế giới nhưng chưa từng xuất hiện mô hình nhà máy có hệ sinh thái – nhà hàng bia thủ công. Từ khi nào anh nghĩ đến việc làm bia thủ công với quy mô lớn?

Đôi khi người ta sẽ không biết tại sao phát triển nhanh như vậy.

Ban đầu mục đích của tôi chỉ là làm loại bia chưa từng có trên thế giới, sáng nấu chiều bán ở cửa hàng mà thôi. Nhưng khi nhu cầu của khách nhiều lên thì chiếc nồi 50 lít không thể đáp ứng, tôi làm nhà máy, rồi nghĩ đến khu công nghiệp, hệ thống nấu đóng gói chuyên nghiệp, vườn cây và hệ sinh thái.

Vậy điều gì sẽ là khác với bia công nghiệp khi bia thủ công phát triển lên quy mô lớn, với số lượng sản xuất nhiều hơn?

Bia thủ công thì đặc trưng là qui mô mẻ nấu không lớn, có sự can thiệp vào quá trình nấu, lên men, ủ, đóng gói. Ngoài ra, nhà máy phải độc lập, bia phải sáng tạo và đậm tính bản địa.

Chúng tôi làm bia và cider sơ ri – một loại quả chỉ có ở nhà máy bia Tiền Giang. Bia vải, bia bạc hà lại ở nhà máy Mê Linh. Thổ địa, khí hậu khác, nguyên liệu khác nên không tạo bia giống nhau được.

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Cửa hàng đầu tiên ở Hà Nội và nhà máy bia đầu tiên thì ngay Mê Linh (Vĩnh Phúc), nhưng đến nhà máy thứ 2, anh lại chọn nơi xa xôi như Tiền Giang. Vì sao vậy?

Tôi áp dụng 3 nguyên tắc cho người khởi nghiệp từ tay trắng đó là làm nhà máy ở nơi xa, chưa phát triển, chọn con người nghèo khó có khát vọng làm giàu và tuyển dụng người trẻ, giỏi hơn mình.

Tiền Giang hội tụ đủ những điều đó, đất rẻ, nhiều nông sản ngon, cộng với tỉnh nhà ủng hộ, người lao động cần cù, chất phác. Tôi quyết định xây nhà máy Ecosystem 6.000 m2 có đủ sả, gừng, chanh leo… trồng từ bã bia, làm nguyên liệu nấu bia.

Cảm giác rất vui, vui hơn cả lúc tôi từng làm ở nhà máy hiện đại nhất Đông Nam Á.

Phở, Ngã tư quốc tế, cà phê Việt Nam – vì sao anh lại chọn tên bia đặc biệt như thế?

Tất cả những gì được đặt cho bia thủ công đều ấn tượng, dễ nhớ và mang đậm tính bản địa. Ví như 36 phố phường nổi tiếng sành ăn, món ăn nức tiếng cũng là Phở… Ngoài ra, King Black, Red Blonde, Pharaoh cũng là những cái tên quốc tế mà tôi đặt cho sản phẩm của mình.

Ở C-Brewmaster cũng có loại bia theo mùa, hay hàng “thửa” riêng cho khách…

Vì có những khách rất khó tính và họ đặt riêng cho mình loại bia thích hợp. Tôi đã từng nấu loại bia kết hợp lá lốt, hành xả cho vị khách ở Hải Phòng với yêu cầu làm sao bia át được vị tanh của hải sản. Lúc uống thử thì rất ngon, nhưng sau mấy hôm thì vị bia lại rất tệ (cười).

Hay có 1 khách đặt bia siêu đắng (hơn 100 IBU đơn vị đắng) mà lại siêu nặng (14-16 độ), và tôi cũng phải nghĩ cách kết hợp cả hai.

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Giá bia của anh rất đắt, gấp 10 lần so với bia thường. Vì sao người ta lại trả nhiều tiên như vậy để thưởng thức bia thủ công mà anh làm ra?

Nếu bỏ tiền gấp đôi mà lại uống loại bia giống bia công nghiệp thì không bao giờ khách quay lại. C-Brewmaster không chỉ bán bia mà bán sự trải nghiệm, sáng tạo, cũng như cùng với khách hàng tạo ra văn hóa uống bia mới.

Là người thợ cả ở Hà Nội, nhưng các nhà máy ở tỉnh khác nhau, anh cân bằng thời gian, công thức, quy trình như thế nào?

Thực ra 1 lãnh đạo giỏi thì can thiệp ít nhất vào hệ thống. Việc của tôi là xây dựng một hệ thống để các bạn nhân viên trực tiếp tự sáng tạo, tự làm, tôi chỉ hỗ trợ hoàn thiện.

Ở chỗ chúng tôi không có nhân viên nào từng học trường chuyên, lớp chọn. Khi tuyển dụng họ chỉ cần chỉ cho tôi thấy họ làm được việc là ổn.

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Ở nhiều quốc gia, nghề nấu bia thủ công thường cha truyền con nối. Có khi nào anh nghĩ mình sẽ truyền cho con mình cơ ngơi này?

Tôi không kì vọng con tôi tiếp quản công ty và không nghĩ rằng cơ nghiệp này phải dành cho con. Giả sử, con tôi có về làm thì phải trải nghiệm, chứng minh được khả năng chứ không phải vì là con của người sáng lập mà có lối tắt. Chúng tôi coi trọng nguyên tắc “chế độ ưu tú”, sự công bằng và minh triết.

Ở Việt Nam, sợ nhất là tư tưởng gia truyền, phải giữ bí kíp. Với tôi, chia sẻ điều đó với mọi người là cách tốt nhất để trưởng thành và giúp ích cho cộng đồng.

Anh thích chơi bonsai và nhiếp ảnh, hai điều này có gì đặc biệt và có ảnh hưởng gì đến việc làm bia không?

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Tôi tập chụp ảnh từ những năm 1986 khi còn là sinh viên. Tôi quan niệm, một bức ảnh đẹp là bức ảnh khiến người ta muốn xem lại. Cũng như bia, có thể đục trong, vàng trắng, đen nhưng bia ngon là bia muốn uống lại. Triết lí như vậy!

Bonsai thì cầu kỳ, kiên nhẫn cắt tỉa cả ngàn chiếc lá, có khi cả đời người mới được một tác phẩm đẹp. Mỗi ngày đều phải chăm bón tưới với sự kiên trì bền bỉ trong nhiều năm.

Nhưng cả ba điều đều vươn đến chân – thiện – mỹ, và sự tập trung toàn tâm – toàn ý – toàn thân, dùng trí tuệ, sức khỏe, trái tim thì thì mới thành công, còn thành công thế nào là ở mỗi người.

Anh có mường tượng 5 hoặc 10 năm tiếp theo, giấc mơ làm bia thủ công của mình sẽ như thế nào không?

Giờ thị trường Việt Nam có đến 40-50 điểm bán bia thủ công. Tuy hàm lượng chỉ chiếm 0,01% tổng sản lượng bia nhưng xu thế chung thì bia bản địa, nước trái cây tự nhiên lên men tiềm năng và phát triển nhanh, 3 năm nữa có thể là 5-7%.

Vì thế, tôi mong không chỉ ở Tiền Giang, Mê Linh, biết đâu chúng tôi sẽ có nhà máy ở những tỉnh thành khác nữa. Lúc đó, tôi vẫn là người nấu bia nhưng sẽ có người kế cận giỏi hơn, làm bia bản địa ngon hơn. Xa hơn là người Việt tự tin không chỉ với bia mà nước giải khát, nước hoa quả ép, lên men.

Khi mình làm cái mới thì sẽ có rủi ro lớn nhưng tôi tin rằng làm toàn tâm toàn ý chắc chắn sẽ thành công và phải làm cái gì duy nhất, độc đáo, của người Việt./.

Câu chuyện về người nghệ nhân bia thủ công sáng lập C-Brewmaster

Theo Trí Thức Trẻ

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