Liệu bia có phải chỉ là đồ uống dành cho những fan hâm mộ bóng đá ngồi nhâm nhi trước màn hình vô tuyến? Bia ngày nay có xu hướng xuất hiện nhiều hơn tại Pháp và được nhiều đối tượng ưa chuộng. Số lượng các xưởng bia ngày càng tăng lên và một nghề mới ra đời đó là nghề làm bia thủ công.
Theo ông Robert Dutin, tác giả cuốn cẩm nang những nhà sản xuất bia và các loại bia của Pháp: Đầu những năm 1980, ngành công nghiệp sản xuất bia tại Pháp có khả năng biến mất nhưng thời kì đen tối đó đã qua từ lâu. Từ 334 xưởng sản xuất bia quy mô nhỏ năm 2010, con số này đã tăng lên gần gấp đôi, tức là khoảng 600 xưởng. Các xưởng bia quy mô nhỏ mở cửa khắp nơi ở Pháp và theo dự kiến còn có thể tiếp tục tăng, ông Robert Dutin nhận định.
Điều đó nghe có vẻ khó tin vì trên thực tế, mức tiêu thụ bia toàn cầu không ngừng giảm. “Từ năm 1976, mỗi năm, lượng tiêu thụ bia giảm 1%”, ông Pascal Chèvremont, tổng phụ trách hiệp hội sản xuất bia của Pháp cho biết. Trung bình mỗi người Pháp uống 30 lít bia/năm trong khi con số này ở người Đức là 100 lít/năm. Pháp, xứ sở của nho với các vùng trồng nho nổi tiếng thế giới, đứng thứ 26 trên tổng số 28 quốc gia thuộc Liên minh châu Âu về tiêu thụ bia…
Hương vị của bia “thủ công” ở Pháp vô cùng đa dạng.
Tuy nhiên, ngược với bia sản xuất theo kiểu công nghiệp, bia thủ công ở Pháp có một sự tăng trưởng ngoạn mục. “Chúng tôi đạt được mức tăng trưởng hai con số từ vài năm nay”, bà Cindy Durchon, giám đốc xưởng bia Cimes ở vùng Aix-les-Bains (vùng Savoie), cho biết.
“Phong trào” sản xuất bia theo phương pháp thủ công bắt nguồn từ Mỹ và Canada hồi những năm 1990 rồi sau đó lan sang châu Âu, tới cả những quốc gia mà mà bia của họ đã nổi tiếng khắp thế giới như Bỉ, Đức và Hà Lan.
Ở Pháp – xứ sở của rượu vang, nếu không uống rất nhiều bia, thì người ta sẽ uống một cách có chọn lọc. “Bia là một cái gì đó rất tinh tế”, ông Robert Dutin nhận định. Theo ông, bia ngon là loại bia ít đắng và khi uống có cảm giác dịu êm. Đôi khi người ta tặng nhau bia làm quà cũng giống như tặng rượu vang. Ở Pháp, có khoảng 2.000 loại bia khác nhau. Xưởng bia Cimes nổi tiếng với 5 loại bia đặc sản là Yéti, Aiguille blanche, được bày bán nhiều ở các siêu thị lớn trong vùng.
“Cả nam giới và phụ nữ đều thích bia của chúng tôi”, bà Durchon kể. Khách hàng của chúng tôi mong muốn quay về với những sản phẩm bia địa phương. Tuy nhiên đặc điểm chính của những xưởng bia thủ công này là họ không đáp ứng đủ nhu cầu của người tiêu dùng cho dù lượng bia mà họ sản xuất mỗi năm tăng từ 10 đến 20%, ông Dutin giải thích. Ngày càng có nhiều người trẻ tham gia các khóa học trong các trường dạy nghề để trở thành người sản xuất bia và danh sách đăng ký học về lĩnh vực này trong các trường ngày càng đông.
Bruno Torres đã mở cửa hàng bia La Baleine ở một khu phố bình dân thuộc quận 12, thủ đô Paris từ mùa xuân năm 2013. Trước kia anh làm thợ chụp ảnh tại một quán rượu và đã quyết định đổi nghề. Lúc đầu anh nghĩ đến việc thử sức với rượu vang, sau đó anh quyết định chọn bia để thỏa sức sáng tạo của mình. Chỉ mất 1 năm loại bia mà anh cho ra lò đã thu hút các nhà hàng, quầy bán gia vị, và thậm chí cả các cửa hàng rượu vang. Bruno Torres giới thiệu một loại bia rất thơm, màu vàng óng với hương vị cam, quýt tại một nhà hàng chuyên các món cá. “Bia của tôi rất hợp với các món ăn này”, anh giải thích.
Bia thu hút cả những người mê rượu vang. Rất nhiều xưởng bia nhỏ lại do các chuyên gia về rượu vang sản xuất, ông Robert Dutin cho biết. Với vô số loại mạch nha, hoa bia và nấm men, khả năng tạo ra bia với nhiều hương vị khác nhau là vô tận, ông nhấn mạnh. Bia sản xuất theo phương pháp thủ công mới chiếm khoảng 3% thị trường nhưng số lượng các xưởng bia kiểu này đã tăng đáng kể, ông Dutin nói.
Tận dụng sự sôi động của thị trường này, các nhà sản xuất bia công nghiệp bắt đầu thử sức với bia thủ công. Theo ông Pascal Chèvremont, mỗi năm, các nhà sản xuất tung ra thị trường nhiều loại bia mới. Trước đây, nhiều người có thể nói tôi “không thích bia” nhưng giờ đây, ai cũng có thể tìm thấy loại bia mà mình yêu thích vì hương vị của nó vô cùng đa dạng.
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