Bia hơi vỉa hè, cái thú của người Hà Nội

10:34 am 05/10/2019 10352 lượt xem

Người ta có thể uống bia vì bất cứ lý do gì, vui cũng như buồn miễn là được ngồi cùng những người bạn hữu. Có khi họ chỉ cần ở đó một mình với cốc bia lạnh ngập bọt trắng. Vào những buổi chiều nắng oi ả, các quán vỉa hè rất đắt hàng.

Bia hơi vỉa hè, cái thú của người Hà Nội

Không cần phải vào các nhà hàng to lớn có điều hòa, phòng VIP, ở Hà Nội rất dễ để tìm một quán bia vỉa hè, từ bia cỏ, bia vi sinh cho đến bia có thương hiệu như Hà Nội, Việt Hà, Việt Pháp… nó được rất nhiều cánh đàn ông ưa chuộng. Khách của các hàng bán bia như thế này chủ yếu là đàn ông độ tuổi từ ngoài 30 đến các cụ già 70 không phân biệt thành phần, ai cũng có thể tìm đến ngồi “chém gió”.

Bia hơi vỉa hè, cái thú của người Hà Nội

Nhà chị Hạnh mới mở quán bia hơi được 4 năm nay. Trước đó, chị từng kinh doanh cà phê giải khát nhưng thua lỗ. Người phụ nữ đứng tuổi và chồng đã bàn kế mở quán bia. Những ngày đầu quán loay hoay, xoay ngược xoay xuôi khá vất vả, bởi cả hai anh chị đều là công chức nghỉ hưu, chưa quen buôn bán. Công việc rồi cũng dần đi vào “quỹ đạo”. Sau khi mọi thứ dễ thở hơn, anh chị mở thêm một quán nữa.

Bia hơi vỉa hè, cái thú của người Hà Nội

Chị Hạnh bảo đợt đầu vắng khách, quán mới, khách lạ và bản thân cũng chưa biết cách bảo quản nên bia không được tươi ngon. Sau này cả nhà có kinh nghiệm hơn, biết cách ủ, bia lúc nào cũng thơm, khách tìm đến dần đông.

Quán bia của chị Hạnh cũng dùng loại cốc “chuyên dụng”, giới sành bia thường gọi là “vại”. Mỗi lần chị nhập từ 100 đến 200 chiếc với giá 7.000 đồng/cái. “Tôi phải mua liên tục đấy, hết khách làm vỡ rồi đến nhân viên. Cũng muốn đổi loại bền hơn nhưng khách họ thích uống cốc này mới đúng chất bia hơi”.

Những ngày nắng nóng cao điểm, chị bán được 500 lít bia. “Tôi được một cậu em giới thiệu mối lấy hàng nên cũng phần nào tin tưởng”, chị chia sẻ.

Quán chị thuê một đầu bếp và 10 nhân viên, nuôi ăn ở ngay tầng trên căn nhà. Kết thúc buổi làm việc cũng là lúc đồng hồ chuyển sang giờ ngày hôm sau.

Để mở quán bia dù nhỏ hay lớn không hề dễ dàng, ngoài chuyện thuê mặt bằng còn phải xin giấy phép kinh doanh, vệ sinh an toàn thực phẩm, phòng cháy chữa cháy. Bia nhập từ các đại lý khác nhau, mỗi nơi một giá và phải đặt cọc trước từ 2,5 triệu 1 bom, mỗi bom 50 lít (giá nhập từ 740.000 – 820.000/bom). Tại quán người kinh doanh cũng phải đầu tư tủ bảo ôn hoặc hầm ủ bia, đảm bảo cho bia thật lạnh.

Bia hơi vỉa hè, cái thú của người Hà Nội

Hoàng Hồng Sơn (sinh năm 1999, quê Quảng Ninh) sau khi tốt nghiệp cấp 3 đã đến Hà Nội tìm việc và xin vào quán chị Hằng làm nhân viên phục vụ. Cậu kể những ngày đầu lóng ngóng, đánh vỡ cốc liên tục rồi phải học cách rót bia làm sao cho cốc đỡ bọt. “Công việc bận rộn nhất vào buổi trưa và tối. Có những ngày phục vụ khách không xuể nhưng cũng có ngày chúng em ngồi chơi nhiều”, Sơn nói.

Từ khi thành phố có chiến dịch lấy lại vỉa hè cho người đi bộ, quán chị Hạnh cũng không còn buôn bán nhộn nhịp được như trước.

Bia hơi vỉa hè – phong cách dân dã, thoải mái nhiều đấng mày râu cho rằng ngồi uống bia vỉa hè sẽ được cảm nhận sự dân dã, thoải mái và giá cả phải chăng. Không những thế họ còn có cơ hội “buôn chuyện” với bạn bè dễ dàng.

Khách ruột của bia hơi là ai?

Bia hơi vỉa hè, cái thú của người Hà Nội

5h chiều, bên cốc bia còn đang tràn bọt, hai người bạn già ngồi nhâm nhi mấy hạt lạc và tỉ tê những chuyện xưa cũ. Cụ ông nhà gần phố Bát Đàn chia sẻ: “Tuổi già mà, thích thì ngồi lúc nào cũng được. Có ngày chúng tôi ngồi chơi với nhau ván cờ, hôm thì tạt vào làm cốc bia cho mát bụng. Bọn trẻ vẫn nói đùa đây là môn tập tạ một tay thú vị”.

Với ông, uống một cốc bia hơi coi như giải nhiệt, bia không nặng như rượu, không dễ bị say sưa, thậm chí còn tăng cường sức khỏe. Hơn nữa, giá thành lại rẻ, chỉ khoảng 7.000-9.000 đồng/cốc. Những quán bia vỉa hè bình dân được ông ưu ái hơn cả. Ông bảo chưa kịp ngồi xuống ghế đã có cốc bia đặt trên bàn, nhấp vài ngụm rồi đứng lên đi về, thế là khoan khoái.

Bia hơi vỉa hè, cái thú của người Hà Nội

Đồ nhậu với bia cũng đa dạng, không thể thiếu đó là lạc, được luộc chín tới, không quá nhừ, hoặc thêm đĩa đậu rán giòn chấm mắm tôm hay con mực nướng thơm cả góc phố.

Bia hơi vỉa hè, cái thú của người Hà Nội

Lặng lẽ ngồi một góc ngắm phố chiều dần buông, ông Nguyễn Ngọc Thụy (Hoàn Kiếm, Hà Nội) gần như mỗi ngày sau khi đi tập thể dục đều qua quán quen làm 2 – 3 cốc. Ngày thì ông ngồi cùng mấy người bạn, ngày thì ông chỉ có một mình. Ông cho rằng mỗi kiểu uống tạo cho mình những cảm giác khác nhau. Ngồi với bạn thì được sống lại với những ký ức, với những chuyện cũ mà mỗi lần gặp cứ kể mãi không hết. Còn khi chỉ có một mình với cốc bia, ông chỉ ngồi đấy và ngắm nhìn thành phố vội vã giờ tan tầm. Mỗi ngày là một Hà Nội đã đổi thay, Hà Nội ngày hôm nay đã khác với ngày hôm qua, Hà Nội của hiện tại đã khác với Hà Nội của mười mấy năm về trước. “Dù Hà Nội có thay đổi đến cỡ nào thì với tôi, nó vẫn vẹn nguyên như thuở đầu tôi bắt đầu biết đến”.

Ông Thụy bảo hương vị của bia này chẳng lẫn đi đâu được, thơm, béo, uống hết cốc này đến cốc khác vẫn nhận ra, uống nhiều mà không bị đau đầu tuy rằng bia ngày nay chỉ còn được 70-80% cái chất của bia ở thời phải xếp hàng, nhích từng mm để mua được một cốc. Hương vị ấy ở những cơ sở sản xuất khác có cố gắng làm giống đến đâu cũng chỉ đánh lừa được vài người dễ dãi. Ông kể trong một chuyến đi công tác đến Việt Trì (Phú Thọ), nhìn thấy một quán bia đề biển “Bia hơi Hà Nội”, ông dừng chân. Uống cốc đầu tiên cũng thấy thơm thơm, mát mát nhưng sang cốc thứ 2 thì mùi vị thay đổi hẳn: chua và đắng. Hỏi ra mới biết, bia được sản xuất ở Việt Trì.

Bia hơi vỉa hè, cái thú của người Hà Nội

Người Hà Nội uống bia có khi cũng chỉ là cái cớ. Họ thích cảm giác ồn ào xung quanh khi ngồi giữa quán. Tiếng khách gọi nhân viên, tiếng cốc va vào nhau leng keng, tiếng còi xe ồn áo bên ngoài vọng vào..tất cả hòa vào thành một không khí rất Hà Nội.

Người Sài Gòn uống bia từ những can 2 -3 lít rót ra, người Hà Nội uống từng cốc, hết lại đầy. Người ngồi san sát với nhau nên thỉnh thoảng những câu chuyện bàn bên tràn sang cả bàn này, cứ thế những câu chuyện cứ nối tiếp nhau, người lạ bỗng thành quen. Đó cũng được coi là một cái thú uống bia mà chỉ Hà Nội mới có.

Nói đến bia vỉa hè Hà Nội không thể không nhắc đến ngã tư quốc tế và phố Tạ Hiện, nơi cả khách Tây lẫn giới trẻ thường tụ lại nhâm nhi và thưởng thức đồ ăn vặt.

Chỉ dài khoảng 100 m nhưng con phố Tạ Hiện hàng quán san sát, đông đúc và nổi tiếng bậc nhất khu trung tâm phố cổ. Người ta có thể nhắc đến Tạ Hiện như một điểm lý tưởng để chụp ảnh, để thưởng thức các món ăn nhưng tất cả chẳng thể vượt qua được danh tiếng của “bia cỏ”.

Bia hơi vỉa hè, cái thú của người Hà Nội

Ở đây, bạn có thể gọi bất cứ loại bia từ nội đến ngoại. Thêm đĩa khoai chiên, mực nướng, nem chua là đã có thể lai rai với đám chiến hữu cả buổi tối.

“Nếu để chọn ngồi uống bia ở đâu thì mình vẫn thích lên Tạ Hiện hơn. Lúc ấy mình không chỉ là uống bia nữa mà còn cảm nhận không khí ồn ã xung quanh”, chị Lan, một khách uống bia chia sẻ.

Với chị Lan, chỉ cần ngồi ở đây và lặng ngắm những người đi lại xung quanh với trang phục, sắc tộc khác nhau, có cảm giác như mình đang hòa nhập với cuộc sống, trở thành một phần nhỏ bé của cuộc sống.

Những tiếng chạm bia keng keng, người người í ới gọi nhau đủ mọi thứ tiếng, tiếng nhạc xập xình từ một quán bar, miếng lát gạch vuông nhỏ đặc trưng của con phố, những cô gái PG xinh xắn, nhẹ nhàng giới thiệu loại bia của hãng… tất cả làm nên một nét rất riêng của Tạ Hiện mà có lẽ chẳng nơi nào có được.

Tạ Hiện vẫn “sống sót” sau cơn bão dẹp vỉa hè. Người nối người từ trong nhà tràn xuống cả lòng đường. Những chiếc ghế xếp thẳng thớm vừa để ngồi vừa thay bàn để bia, đồ nhậu. Có “động tĩnh”, chỉ cần đứng dậy cầm theo cốc bia và vẫn tiếp tục thưởng thức ngon lành.

Đã quá nửa đêm nhưng không khí vẫn nhộn nhịp nơi đây. Một bộ mặt khác của phố cổ. Không còn là những góc phố cổ kính, cũ kỹ, không còn là phố xá vội vã của những cuộc mưu sinh. Khu phố rực sáng, huyên náo giữa màn đêm với vị tê cay đầu lưỡi của chất men say trong đêm hè bỗng trở nên mát dịu.

 

theo zing.vn

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